Camel cccthru-hiker

The first time I realised that the desert can actually be a thriving, mountainous ecosystem was when I completed central Australia’s Larapinta trail a couple of years ago. I was blown away by the sheer size and quantity of peaks scattered throughout the 220km trail along the MacDonnell range from Mount Sonder to Alice Springs. But what about Southern California and the first 700 miles of the Pacific Crest Trail? Would this also be mountainous and full of wildlife or a harsh, dry and deserted landscape? As it turned out the former only begins to describe the abundant life and jagged landscape of this part of the United States. As a starting point the deserts that PCT wind through are already high above sea level and from here mountains rise sharply above. There is rarely a day on trail without long winding climbs up switchbacks. The ground is covered with various types of green vegetation hiding much of the typical dry desert dirt below. With this abundance of flora comes an equal amount of various fauna. Squirrels, groundhogs, road runners, kangaroo mice, hummingbirds and turkey vultures can be seen here on a regular basis. While if you are more lucky, glimpses of mountain lions, black bears, coyotes and bobcats can be had most often during the early or late hours of a given day.

Given the elevation of these desert sections the higher peaks can experience heavy snow fall during the colder months. San Jacinto sits above Idyllwild on one side and creates an alpine environment while the opposing side is the desert oasis city of Palm Springs. Sitting at the summit on the minimal snow it is easy to make the mistake of thinking that a dusting of snow in the desert is all that you would ever experience here. San Jacinto, however, is 3000m above sea level and just two weeks prior had to be skipped by most PCT thru-hikers as heavy snow conditions made the ascent too dangerous.

During the winter months some of these alpine towns surrounded by desert become ski locations for the locals and many people from nearby LA. Big Bear City had several ski runs, as did Wrightwood. These areas are where you are most likely to come across black bears. I did exactly this during an alpine section shortly after Wrightwood. A large figure crashed through the forest as I attempted to finish off a long day in the dark. I suddenly found myself face to face with a large black bear. To my amazement I was incredibly calm simply letting out the phrase, “Hi bear”. I think that I’d asked so many questions about what to do during bear or mountain lion interactions that my unofficial training came in. Generally black bears are not interested in hurting humans. They are foraging animals often eating roots and berries. As long as you don’t put yourself between them and food or more importantly their cubs you are unlikely to be attacked. This gentle giant looked at me for a while and I eventually started moving down the trail again, looking over my shoulder a few times to be sure that he had no interest in following me. I genuinely believe that spending so much time reconnecting with nature affects how you react in these types of situations. I’d expected bears at this point, I’d traversed through their environment for a couple of weeks at this point and knew that an interaction was bound to happen sooner or later. Once you realise that these beautiful animals are part of the ecosystem just as much as the trees and mountains it gives you an innate sense of calm.

Another memorable interaction with a larger predator came during the final few sections of the desert. 50 miles south of Walker Pass I came across what I believe was a juvenile mountain lion on trail midway through a planned 100 mile push to Kennedy Meadows. Again the training from my American peers on trail kicked in as I yelled all sorts of expletives at this poor animal going about their business in an attempt to make myself seem big and intimidating. It worked immediately as the young mountain lion escaped for the cover of a rocky outcrop. I filmed the whole experience and although it felt kind of silly I told a local hunter Greg about it the next day at Walker Pass and he assured me that I had done the right thing.

The reptiles are abundant throughout the trail. Although I’m used to snakes back home in Australia, the novelty of rattlesnakes in particular has been a highlight. Small mammals such as squirrels are constantly zooming across the trail, never hanging around long enough to get a photo but their lack of interest in being around people makes you feel as if you are truely in the wild.

My knowledge of North American plants is poor but I’ve been lucky enough to have a constant flow of various types of vegetation. From shrubs and bushes in the lower desert sections to pine trees at the higher altitudes, the desert is anything but bare. I have made a point of learning about a couple of native plant species, however, and with good reason. Poison oak and poodle bush can be found in shaded areas and at altitude respectively. They can both cause nasty skin irritations that can get you off trail.

Birdlife is abundant throughout the trail. I’ve seen wild turkeys, much bigger than the farmed version back home with huge ‘beards’ coming out of the male’s chests. Turkey vultures circle ahead and their name really gives away their unappealing features perfectly. Perhaps my favourite bird of the desert however, is the humming birds. They will hover right in front of your face as if sussing you out with frantically flapping wings making a beating sound not dissimilar to a large insect.

The insect life is just as interesting, although I wasn’t paying proper attention to this Initially. It wasn’t until Maurice (from San Francisco) showed me super interesting videos of various invertebrates that I opened my eyes to the smallest yet craziest members of the desert ecosystem.

Now that I am in Kennedy Meadows at the doorstep of the famous Sierra mountain range I find myself missing the ever changing landscape of the Southern Californian desert. Although I know there is huge beauty ahead it will take a lot to match the scenery of the desert. A desert that is utterly full of life.